![]() and it shifted, and powershifted just fine. The next one I built, didn't get those mods. Initial results were good, as it shifted, and powershifted just fine. (used an extra long pilot bushing in order to use the shorter 'big block' pilot shaft, and it came loose, junking everything) Unfortunately, that transmission had a catastrophic failure early in it's service life, so it only made a few trips to the track. The syncronizers were left in place, and it worked just like a regular transmission, but was supposed to shift better at high rpm. I did this just to the tip, and didn't grind the entire tooth away, as that would weaken the gear. I read an article, and on one of the transmissions I built for the mustang, I ground the point off every other tooth on the gears' sychro ring. The highest torque multiplication is in 1st gear, but these teeth are left alone so tranny strengh should not be an issue. Be sure to follow through and complete the shift or you'll end up in neutral with a horrible grinding sound! So now the obstacles to a fast shift are eliminated but the gears will grind during a granny shift, so on the street, use the clutch but move the lever quickly. Then, push the stick toward 3rd and repeat the process. Then I pull back on the shift lever and when the engine hits the rev limiter the pressure on the gears is released and SNICK!, it's in 2nd just like that. I set the rev limiter at the RPM I want to shift at. These are called blocking rings because they block completion of the shift until both gear and slider are at the same speed. The brass synchronizer (or "blocking") rings are left out. ![]() It adds some backlash to the drivetrain but is hardly noticeable (haven't done much street driving yet, though). ![]() This allows plenty of room for the remaining teeth to slide together. On 2nd, 3rd, and 4th I ground off every other 'dog' tooth on BOTH gear and slider to eliminate the possiblility of hanging up mid-shift. It took me a little while to get used to it, it was not bad once I figured it out.I recently did this on the Top Loader in my Cougar. Until you get it down, people will be asking you what is wrong with your car, after they hear you shift when cruising. #Pro shifted pro#Once you learn to adjust your driving style, people will not know you have a pro shifted or face plated transmission. Then you just let the clutch out at a normal rate, with no banging. Doing it this way, it will go into gear, will not jump back out, then the slack between the gear and slider will be taken up. The way to prevent the loud banging when driving normaly, is to not fully release the clutch, push the pedal in enough that it is about 70% to 80% released. Kind of like having a GM truck with an old worn out 10 bolt rear, but the slack is in the transmission not the rear axle. ![]() So if you fully depress the clutch, getting it to fully release, then let the clutch out normaly, you get a very loud bang through the drivetrain when the clutch grabs. So you have a lot more slack between the sliders and the gears. At the same time, the spacing between the teeth on either a pro shifted or face plated gear are much wider, the sliders also have teeth with the same wide spacing to match the teeth on the gears. With a pro shift or face plated trans, you do not have blocker rings, so there is nothing to bring the gear speed to close to the output shaft speed. The gear will have too much power being transferred through it, so it over powers the blocker ring, since it is a small friction device not intended to handle any hp and so it grinds. If you do not fully release the clutch, so there is a decent amount of power being transferred through the input shaft. By bring the gear speed up to very close to the speed of the output shaft, the slider will mesh the synchro teeth on the gear easily, if the blocker is worn or glazed, it does not produce enough friction to bring the gear to near the same speed as the output shaft, so you get a grinding when shifting. With a sychronised trans, you have blocker rings that act as friction devices, they bring the gear you are trying to engauge up to the speed of the output shaft as you are moving the slider towards a gear, the shift forks move the sliders. Basicaly with a sychronised transmission, you should fully release the clutch before pull in it out of a gear and definitely before going into a gear. You want to do just the opposite of what you would with a trans with sychros. Click to expand.It is not hard, don't fully rease the clutch when shifting anytime. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |